The Classic Lampang Railway Journey

Day 1: Chiang Mai – Lampang

The historical train ride through the Khuntan Tunnel

Your guide and driver will meet you at your hotel in Chiang Mai at 8:30 AM to begin your Classic Lampang Railway Journey. You will be transferred to the Chiang Mai Railway Station to board Local Train No. 408 to Nakhon Sawan, departing at 9:30 AM. This unique journey takes place on the only non-air-conditioned train along this section of the Northern Line, offering unobstructed views for photography enthusiasts. The train travels in 3rd class, so while it lacks modern comforts, it provides an authentic and charming experience. Along the route, you’ll pass the historic Lamphun Station and nine quaint, timeworn stations that remain largely unchanged since this railway section was inaugurated in 1922.

Scenic Highlights Along the Northern Line

The Northern Line is Thailand’s only railway passing through a national park, offering a rare blend of natural beauty and engineering marvels. As the train approaches Doi Khuntan National Park, you will cross the iconic Tha Chomphu Bridge, also known as the White Bridge, built in 1919. This elegant structure is a favorite photography spot. As the train climbs to Khuntan Station—situated at 573 meters above sea level, the highest station on the Northern Line—you’ll enjoy spectacular mountain views. After a brief stop at Khuntan Station, the journey continues through the historic Khuntan Tunnel, Thailand’s longest railway tunnel at nearly 700 meters, an engineering feat completed in 1921. From there, the train descends into the plains of Lampang, where the landscape shifts to serene rural vistas. Your journey concludes at the quaint Hang Chat Station, where you will disembark at approximately 11:47 AM.

Lunch at Baan Phraya Suren

We drive to the City of Lampang where we will first have lunch at Baan Phraya Suren by Madame Musur. This small restaurant is next to a fantastic, restored heritage house. This beautiful house was once the home of Phraya Surendarajasena and his family, a highly ranked civil servant in Lampang. He was in charge of the royal reception when King Prajadiphok (Rama VII) visited Lampang in January 1927. The house was constructed between 1890 and 1903 and was originally named Baan Jerm Suk.  They have restored the house beautifully inside and outside. Old photos from the 1920sand 30s adorn the walls.

The Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum

After lunch, we will visit the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum and Factory, the “home of the chicken bowl.” You will get a guided tour through the museum and the factory. Even if you are not into ceramics the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum is very interesting. The Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum traces the origins of Lampang’s ceramic industry, which began in the early 20th century. The famous chicken bowl design, featuring a rooster motif painted on white ceramic, was introduced by Chinese artisans and quickly became a staple of Thai households. The museum showcases the evolution of this craft and its cultural significance in everyday Thai life.
Mr.E Simyo Saechin, a Chinese immigrant founded the ceramic factory in 1955. You will learn about the history and visit the factory section. There are two enormous old kilns, called Dragon Kiln. A dragon kiln is a traditional type of wood-fired pottery kiln, named for its long, tunnel-like shape that resembles a dragon when viewed from the side. These kilns are particularly significant in the history of ceramics and have been used for centuries, especially in China, Southeast Asia, and Japan. Dragon kilns originated in China over 2,000 years ago, during the Han Dynasty, and played a pivotal role in the production of ceramics.

Wat Sri Chum

The Wat Sri Chum is the finest example of Burmese temple architecture in Lampang. During the heyday of teak logging, many Burmese came to Lampang to work for British companies. Some of the wealthiest Burmese financed the construction of temples, such as Wat Sri Chum and Wat Si Rong Muang. The Wat Sri Chum is a stunning temple. Burmese temples, like Wat Sri Chum, are distinguished by their multi-tiered roofs, or pyatthat, which taper upwards in a pagoda-like fashion. These roofs are intricately adorned with carved wooden details and gilded ornaments. We will take our time to visit this temple.

The Asia Lampang Hotel

After this, we will drive to our hotel for tonight: the Asia Lampang Hotel. This hotel opened in 1971 and was frequented by American service personel, based at the US Ko Kha Air Station, about 33km southwest of Lampang. The hotel still has that 1970s atmosphere but they have renovated all the rooms recently. The location is excellent, close to restaurants and Kad Kong Ta street.

Day 2: Lampang – Chiang Mai

Gingerbread houses of Lampang

Our first visit will be Kao Chao Market in the Black Bridge area, near the railway station. We have to be early at this market which is more than 100 years old. We will wander around the market before we drive to the beautiful railway station of Lampang, which opened in 1916. The railway line from Bangkok reached Lampang six years earlier than Chiang Mai. We continue to Kad Kong Ta, the former commercial center of Lampang, where many historic houses are located. Along the way, we stop at Wat Si Rong Muang, another example of typical Burmese temple architecture. It is one of Lampang’s most famous Burmese temples, a stunning structure built by Burmese teak traders in 1905. It features multi-tiered roofs with elaborate wood carvings, gilded details, and a serene atmosphere.

Kad Kong Ta: the Moung Ngwe Zin House

Kad Kong Ta is also the street where the famous “Walking Street” takes place on Friday and Saturday from 1700 until 2200.  Lampang, known as Lakon, was the center of the teak industry in North Thailand from the roughly the 1890s until World War Two. At least 4,000 elephants were working in forestry in the area. The British logging firms brought many Burmese and Shan workers with them, which heavily influenced the architecture of temples and houses that were built in those days. Most of the magnificent historic wooden houses date back to that period.

The Moung Ngwe Zin House is a historic residence in Lampang, Thailand, known for its distinctive Burmese architectural style and its connection to the region’s teak trade history. This house serves as a testament to the cultural and economic ties between Burma (now Myanmar) and northern Thailand during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Unfortunately the house is only open on weekends from 1600 until 2200.

Who Was Moung Ngwe Zin? Moung Ngwe Zin was a prominent Burmese teak trader who settled in Lampang during the height of the teak industry. Like many Burmese merchants of the time, he amassed wealth through the trade and constructed this exquisite house as a symbol of prosperity and cultural pride. The house not only reflects his success but also stands as a piece of Lampang’s rich historical tapestry.

Wat Koh Walukaram

From here, we walk to Wat Koh Walukaram, a temple that was made famous by the BBC documentary series “Great Asian Railway Journeys” presented by Michael Portillo. At 23.25, you will see Michael at the wooden building of this temple. This is not an assembly hall but a “Sala Kan Parian“,a multi-purpose building used for various Buddhist activities. Originally, it was used only as a place for monks to study. This building is now being restored. Wat Koh Walukaram is one of the older temples in Lampang, with its origins dating back to the 19th century. Like many other temples in the area, it was founded during a time when Burmese influence was strong due to the prosperous teak trade and migration of Burmese settlers to Lampang. The temple’s name, “Koh Walukaram,” is derived from Pali, with “Koh” meaning “island” and “Walukaram” meaning “sand,” which could be interpreted as a reference to the peaceful and serene nature of the temple grounds, surrounded by lush greenery and a quiet, isolated setting.

Lampang, the City of Horse Carriages

Then it is time for a horse cart ride to a neighborhood known as the Forestry Quarter. The horse carriage is the symbol of Lampang: “rot ma”. We drive to the nearest horse cart station. We cross the Wang River via the iconic Rachadapisek Bridge. Horse carriages were introduced to Lampang during the late 19th century, a time when the town flourished due to the booming teak trade and the arrival of Burmese traders and settlers. The carriages were used as a convenient means of transportation for both locals and visitors, providing a comfortable way to navigate the town’s roads, especially with the abundance of horses brought by Burmese merchants. We continue to the nearby “Louis House” and will finish the ride at Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao.

The Louis Leonowens House

This house is the former office of the Louis T.Leonowens Company involved in teak logging a hundred years ago. It is currently being renovated. Louis Leonowens was the son of Anna Leonowens. The Louis Leonowens House is not just an architectural landmark but also a reminder of the region’s historical ties to foreign trade and the cultural influence of the British Empire in Southeast Asia. It also holds a special place in the story of Anna Leonowens, who became famous as the governess of the children of King Mongkut. Anna’s memoirs about her experiences at the Thai court were later adapted into the well-known play and film, “The King and I.”

The next stop is Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao. Here the horse cart ride ends. This is the most revered temple in Lampang. It has a wonderful Burmese-style mondop. On the same complex is a much smaller temple, called Wat Suchadaram, which has an interesting story. It is time for lunch which we will enjoy at the Riverside restaurant.

Visit an Elephant Hospital

After lunch, we slowly start our drive back to Chiang Mai.  On the way to Chiang Mai, we will visit the Friends of the Asian Elephant Foundation hospital. Watch a short but very moving video about Motala, the elephant that lost a leg when it stepped on a landmine. The foundation welcomes donations. This hospital features in BBC’s documentary series “Great Asia Railway Journeys” at 2.40.

We continue to Chiang Mai and will stop briefly at the Khuntan “jungle market.” This is an exciting market. You will find forest products for sale you won’t see in an urban market. We will drop you off at your hotel in Chiang Mai and hope you have enjoyed your Classic Lampang Railway Journey. We also offer a Lampang day tour: Elephants and Horse Carriages. If you are into train journeys, our Railway Journeys might interest you.