Chiang Mai a la Carte
Wat Umong: the Forest Temple of Chiang Mai
Jul
Table of Contents
Legenda of the map of Wat Umong
- Bhudda Dhamma bookstore
- Welfare Store
- Meditation Center
- Dhamma Kosa Library
- Ancient Arts and Lanna Science Learning Center
- Phra Ubosot
- Abbot’s Residence
- Wat Umong Pagoda
- Tunnel
- Buddha Statue
- Wat Umong inscription
- Ashoka Pillar
- Panyananda Bhikkhu Monument
- Spiritual Theatre
15. Chao Chuen Pavillion
16. Chao Chuen Dhamma Square
17. Phaya Mengrai Monument
18. Thong Kam Pavillion
19. Sangha Area
20. Buddhadasa Monument
21. Narike Pond
22. Female Lay Disciple Area
23. Kunna Dhamma CAmp
24. Cemetery
25. Historic Site
Wat Umong, Chiang Mai’s Forest Temple
Wat Umong Suan Phuthatham (วัดอุโมงค์ สวนพุทธธรรม) is a unique temple at the foot of Suthep Mountain aka Doi Suthep. Its name translates as the “Tunnel Temple of the garden of the Buddha’s Teachings”. People founded the temple in the late 13th century during the reign of King Mangrai, the founder of the Lanna Kingdom and the City of Chiang Mai. It is believed that the temple was a forest monastery for monks to meditate in a quiet, forest environment from the beginning.
The History of a Buddhist Forest Retreat
King Kuena (1355–1385), the sixth monarch of the Mangrai Dynasty was a devout patron of Theravada Buddhism. At that time a highly respected monk named Maha Thera Chan resided at the temple. This monk preferrred to stay in the forest and meditate in an undisturbed and quiet environment. Thus ordered King Kuena the construction of a system of tunnels under the mound of the big pagoda of the temple. “Umong” means tunnel in Northern Thai language, hence the name of Wat Umong. The tunnel system still exists until this time and has become the most distinctive feature of the temple.
The demise and revival of the temple
The period of the Burmese occupation of Chiang Mai (1558-1774) is sometimes called the “Dark Age” by Thai historians. I couldn’t find much information about this period. After the expulsion of Burmese forces by combined Northern Thai and Siamese forces most temples in Chiang Mai were in a state of ruin, including the forest temple. It was not until 1949 when Chao Chuen Siroros established a meditation center there. His inspiration was Buddhadasa Bhikkhu’s Suan Mokkh, a well-known meditation center in the South of Thailand. He also gave the monastery a new name, “Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham”, which it continues to use today. Chao Chuen Siroros was instrumental in the revival of the temple we see today.
In front of the hill that houses the tunnels there is a large collection of broken Buddha images and other remains of statues and artifacts, dating to the period between 1400 and 1500AD. According to information on a plaque, Chao Chuen Siroros and “other faithfulls” of Wat Umong collected these from deserted monasteries in Phayao province in the years 1968-1970.
The Chedi and the tunnels
Main attraction of the temple are the chedi and the tunnel complex below the hill. The tunnels are tastefully illuminated and contain several Buddha images. A short Naga staircase leads to a platform with flame and tamarind trees with a huge, Bagan-style chedi in the middle and an old bell tower on the side. Wat Umong still has that mystic atmosphere of a remote meditation center although it is located close to the airport.
In the past there were rice fields and forests occupying the space of four kilometers from the Suan Dok Gate to the temple. The only landmark was the walled compound of Wat Suan Dok and several abandoned chedis. The construction of the Suan Dok Hospital in the 1940s started the development of the space between Suandok Gate and the base of Doi Suthep Mountain. This was followed by the opening of Chiang Mai University in 1964. Wat Umong was no longer a remote and quiet meditation center.
The Asoke (or Ashoka) Pillar
Wat Umong is a vast complex with many things to see. In front of the tunnel complex you will find the Asoke Pillar aka the Ashoka Pillar. Ashoka the Great was an emperor of an ancient empire in India, about 300 years before Christ. In short: after he converted to Buddhism he start spreading the Buddhist faith. He built pillars at Buddhist monasteries and at important sites from the life of the Buddha as well as at places of pilgrimage. The pillars contain inscriptions of his edicts. In honor of Ashoka, Buddhists erected a replica at Wat Umong.
The Spiritual Theatre
The Spiritual Theatre is an interesting museum-like information center, located opposite the tunnel complex. It contains information about the temple and some exhibits such as the Vipassana-Vessel from artist Montien Boonma (1953-2000). Boonma created this artwork in 1993. It consists of more than 600 terracotta alms bowls stacked up in 24 alternating rows. Initially the artwork was placed outside. Old pictures show damage to the artwork so it was reconstructed in 2020. The Spiritual Theatre now houses the Vipassana-Vessel. By the way, Montien collaborated with the craftsmen of Baan Muang Kung, an old pottery production center in Chiang Mai.
The Narike Pond and the animals
Wat Umong has a pretty pond, teeming with fish and turtles, which is popular with visitors. You can buy fish food and feed them. The many pigeons that are around will be interested in the fish food as well. Apart from that there are many roosters at the temple.
Some facts about Wat Umong
Wat Umong is located in the district of Chiang Mai, about 4 kilometers west of the Suan Dok Gate. The temple is open daily from 4:00 AM to 8:00 PM. Admission is 20THB per person for the tunnels.
If you cross the pond it is only a short walk to the Choeng Doi Suthep Wildlife and Nature Education Center, a protected area. It has a wonderful nature trail, deer and banteng roaming around as well as couple of ancient ruins that probably predate Wat Umong.
By the way, Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham should not be confused with Wat Umong Mahathera Chan, which is located in the Old City.
