temples & architecture
Wat Si Sutthawat: the Burmese Temple
Jul
A forgotten Burmese Temple in Wiang Pa Pao
The Shan legacy of Wat Si Sutthawat
These structures include the original ubosot (ordination hall), scripture library, chedi, and viharn (assembly hall). The ubosot, chedi, and library remain in their original condition, while the viharn was replaced in 1968. However, the Buddha images and other statues from the original assembly hall are still preserved.
The Thai-style assembly hall is probably much bigger than the original Shan-style structure. The altar has several Buddha images in different sizes in Shan-style. At the base of the altar you can find remains of typical Burmese glass mosaic (မှန်ကြမ်းစီ), that was used to decorate walls and ceilings of temples.
Shan workers of the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation
British teak firms, such as the Bombay Burma Trading Corporation, mainly employed workers from Burma. Most of them probably came from the Federated Shan States, that were part of British Burma until 1948. These firms had developed a significant teak trade in Burma since the early 19th century so local workers had experience in the teak industry. The Federated Shan States bordered North Siam which facilitated their migration. Moreover, these workers probably were affordable than the Siamese.
Burmese teak merchants
Did Shan workers live in Wiang Pa Pao?
An undated map of teak forest concessions in North Thailand shows Wiang Pa Pao within the French East Asiatic Company’s concession area (marked green), adjacent to the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation’s concessions (marked blue). You can find Wieng Pa Pao (old spelling) in the top right corner of this map. Shan workers of the Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation from the Shan States in Burma probably lived in Wiang Pa Pao but more research is needed.
An interesting temple museum
The temple also houses a small but fascinating museum, which was closed during my visit but kindly opened by the monk. All the exhibits are covered under a thick layer of dust, adding to the atmosphere of this forgotten temple with its fascinating Shan legacy. I will have to spend more time in the museum to take a closer look at the exhibits and the written information. I have the feeling that there is a lot of unwritten history in this small town.
The monk, who has resided at the temple for 52 years, has a lot of historical knowledge of which he only shared bits with me. I will go back to Wiang Pa Pao to spend more time with him.
Wat Si Sutthawat in Wiang Pa Pao
If you are in the vicinity of Wiang Pa Pao it is worth visiting Wat Si Sutthawat. The temple is located in a quiet, heavily forested area, not far from the main road. There are five monks residing at the temple and you have to find the monk with the key of the museum. Also the assembly hall of the temple was closed when I visited. The same monk opened it for me.
The location of Wat Si Sutthawat
