temples & architecture
Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai
Jun
Table of Contents
Introduction: Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai
Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai (วัดพระธาตุดอยเขาควาย) is one of the many Buddhist temples in Chiang Rai that receives almost no foreign visitors. Its full name is Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai Kaew (วัดพระธาตุดอยเขาควายแก้ว) but people know it as Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai. “Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai Kaew” translates the “temple of the glass buffalo mountain“.
The temple is on about 522 meters just south of Chiang Rai’s city center and offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains. If the skies are clear you can see as far as the giant statue of Kuan Im, the Chinese Goddess of Mercy at Wat Huay Pla Kang which is about 11 kilometers away.
A short history of the temple
According to information at the temple, it was King Kuena, the sixth ruler of the Mangrai dynasty, who began the construction of Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai. His reign lasted from 1355 to 1385. He brought a relic of the Buddha, specifically a left little finger, Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai to spread Buddhism in the region. Several restorations of the temple compound have taken place over time. King Kuena was a devout Buddhist and also founded Wat Phra That Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai.
The information board at the temple’s entrance mentions that the Chiang Rai Municipality requested a subsidy from the Ministry of Interior about 20 years ago to construct a viewing deck, walkway, and other facilities to attract tourists to the temple. They also built a parking lot, installed electric lights, improved the water system, and added signs for visitors. Despite these efforts, the temple remains off the typical tourist trail.
The temple of Maeng See Hoo Hah Tah (Sihuhata)
Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai is a remarkable temple with many interesting things to see. The most remarkable is the association with a mythical animal deity, called “Sihuhata”. The full Thai name of this bizarre creature is Maeng See Hoo Hah Tah (Thai: แมงสี่หูห้าตา). This translates to “the insect or spider with four ears and five eyes”. This animal more looks like a big cat or tiger and it doesn’t come across as a friendly animal. You would not like to encounter this creature in your bedroom. Maeng See Hoo Hah Tah allegedly eats charcoal and its feces is gold, according to legend.
The Legend of Maeng See Hoo Hah Tah (Sihuhata)
According to the Late monk Khruba Chao Chaiyawongsa Phatthana the four ears (see hoo) symbolize the Four Noble Truths of Buddhism: the truth of suffering, the truth of the cause of suffering, the truth of the end of suffering, and the truth of the path that leads to the end of suffering. The five eyes (hah tah) stand for the Five Precepts that make up the basic code of ethics to be respected by lay followers of Buddhism.
Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai is the only temple in Thailand related to this mythical creature, as far as I know. It doesn’t seem to have a malevolent nature but it definitely looks fierce. Revellers donate charcoal because they believe this deity grants wealth and success. The buffalo in the temple’s name is reflected in several buffalo statues within the compound.
A very interesting temple with a fantastic view
You can easily spend an hour at Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai. The assembly hall and main pagoda are worth photographing, and there are other intriguing structures and buildings. There is a small pavillion with an image of Kuan Im, the Goddess of Mercy, and another contains a statue of King Mangrai, the founder of Chiang Rai. A short staircase leads down to another building housing a small statue of the mythical beast.
The concrete assembly hall looks a bit rough and unfinished but houses an impressive Buddha image with a smaller red emerald Buddha in front. During my visit, the altar was surrounded by bamboo scaffolding, but the hall’s interior is beautifully decorated. The temple has an impressive Naga staircase, though I have not yet discovered how to reach its base.
Some facts about Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai
The temple is about 5km from the center of Chiang Rai. You need your own transportation to get there, charter a taxi or, better, join us on a tour. The road up to the temple is not more than 1,5 km and not very steep. There is parking space at the temple compound. There are monks living at the temple and the abbot is very friendly. He receives guests in a large pavilion with a very interesting interior.
The temple opens at 0530 and closes at 1830. Entrance is free. Please dress respectfully.
The sources for this article:
Information at the temple
Wikipedia pages about the temple in English and Thai
