temples & architecture
Wat Ban Den, the Temple of the Zodiac
Jun
Wat Ban Den: introduction
Wat Ban Den, also known as Wat Den Sali Sri Muang Kaen (วัดเด่นสะหลีศรีเมืองแกน), is a striking and increasingly popular Buddhist temple complex that beautifully blends traditional Lanna, Thai, Chinese, and other cultural influences. Spanning a vast 128,000 square meters (80 rai) in Inthakhin village, Mae Taeng district, Chiang Mai Province, it sits atop a small hill offering panoramic views of rice fields and surrounding mountains. People also call this temple the “Blue Temple“, not to be confused with the Blue Temple in Chiang Rai.
The temple lies about a kilometer off the road leading from Highway 107 toward Mae Ngat Dam. Visitors often combine a trip here with the nearby Buatong Waterfall (the “Sticky Waterfalls”). Kruba Thueng Nathasilo (ครูบาเทือง นาถสีโล), a highly respected senior monk, serves as the abbot. He has attracted a large following, including Chinese, Tai Yai (Shan), Karen, and other groups, who have donated generously to support the temple’s ambitious development.
The History of Wat Ban Den
Reliable historical details about Wat Ban Den can be difficult to verify, as there are no on-site plaques or consistent online sources. The temple was originally a small village temple known as Wat Sri Bun Rueang, with roots possibly dating back to the 16th century or earlier. It was constructed or significantly established in its early form around 1894.
Kruba Thueng Nathasilo was born as Theung Norruang on February 20, 1965, in Hua Dong Village. He was ordained as a novice on April 28, 1985, at Wat Hua Dong and received full ordination as a monk on May 20, 1986. In 1988, he was invited to become abbot of Wat Ban Den, which was then in poor condition. Major restoration and construction began around 1991, transforming the modest temple into the grand complex seen today. In 2002, he was appointed as a First Class Royal Abbot with the title Phra Kru Paisan Phatthanakowit. “Kruba” is an honorific title for highly revered senior monks in Northern Thailand.
Kruba Thueng Nathasilo
Under Kruba Thueng Nathasilo’s leadership, Wat Ban Den has gained nationwide fame and respect. Devotees from across Thailand and beyond have contributed substantial donations, which the abbot has used to construct numerous impressive buildings and features. The temple is now one of Chiang Mai Province’s most visited and photogenic sites.
According to Kruba Thueng, the name evolved as follows: The original name was simply “Wat Den.” After he arrived, Bodhi trees (known locally as “Kao Sali”) began to grow, which he saw as auspicious. The area was also once part of an ancient settlement called Muang Kaen, leading to the full name Wat Den Sali Sri Muang Kaen.
A couple of local volunteers told me during my last visit in May 2026 that there were only three monks residing at the temple of which one is Kruba Thueng Nathasilo.
The architecture of Wat Ban Den
Wat Ban Den is a sprawling, vibrant complex filled with ornate buildings, intricate wood carvings, mythical guardian figures (such as Naga serpents, hatsadiling birds and Singha lions), and colorful statues. Its scale and detail can feel even more overwhelming than other modern temples like Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) or Wat Rong Suea Ten (Blue Temple) in Chiang Rai.
A standout feature is the cluster of 12 pagodas (chedis) representing the Thai zodiac animals, located behind the main buildings. These allow visitors to pay homage to their birth-year animal in one convenient location.
The Thai zodiac
The Thai zodiac adapts the Chinese 12-year lunar cycle with influences from Lanna and Hindu-Buddhist traditions. Each year is linked to a specific animal and traditionally associated with a particular temple in Thailand. Many Buddhists believe visiting the temple of one’s birth year brings merit, health, and good fortune. Because some associated temples are far away, Kruba Thueng built replicas here so devotees can conveniently make offerings.
The 12 Zodiac Animals and Their Associated Temples
There are subtle differences in the list of associated animals and pagodas in other zodiacs I found online. Some websites give wrong information which confuses AI chatbots. This is the most generally uses list of zodiac years and their associated temples.
- The Year of the Rat: Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong (Chom Thong, Chiang Mai Province)
- The Year of the Ox: Wat Phra That Lampang Luang (Lampang Province)
- The Year of the Tiger: Wat Phra That Cho Hae (Phrae Province)
- The Year of the Rabbit: Wat Phra That Chae Haeng (Nan Province)
- The Year of the Dragon: Wat Phra Singh (Chiang Mai Province)
- The year of the Snake: Wat Ched Yod (Chiang Mai Province)
- The Year of the Horse: Wat Phra Borommathat (Tak)
- The Year of the Goat: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (Chiang Mai Province)
- The Year of the Monkey: Wat Phra That Phanom (Nakhon Phanom. Province)
- The Year of the Rooster: Wat Phra That Hariphunchai (Lamphun Province)
- The Year of the Dog: Wat Ket Karaam (Chiang Mai Province)
- The Year of the Pig: Wat Phra That Doi Tung (Chiang Rai Province)
The Thai Zodiac at Wat Ban Den
The replicas of the pagodas of the Zodiac at Wat Ban Den are in a closed rectangular area. Around that area there are small white replicas with a statue of the associated animals. At Wat Ban Den the Year of the Elephant substitutes for the Year of the Pig. Also the pagoda of That Phanom in Nakhon Phanom province takes the place of Wat Phra That Hariphunchai as the temple of the Year of the Monkey. Furthermore there is a replica of Bodh Gaya (Mahabodhi Temple complex in India) as the temple of the Year of the Snake instead of Wat Ched Yod in Chiang Mai.
An overwhelming temple
As I wrote before, there is no explanation in Thai or in English about the buildings, the murals, the mythical animals, the animal zodiac and associated chedis (pagodas). You either have to prepare yourself by doing online research or visit the temple with a knowledgeable guide. The craftmanship is absolutely mindboggling and deserves the highest admiration.
The last time I visited there was still construction under way. I will keep you posted regularly and will some more research at this truly remarkable and stunning Buddhist temple in North Thailand
Some facts and Temple Etiquette
Wat Ban Den is located in the Mae Taeng district of Chiang Mai, about 40–50 kilometers north of the city
The temple is open daily from 6:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Admission is free (though donations are appreciated)
Dress Code & Preparation
- Modest attire: Cover your shoulders and knees. Avoid tank tops, crop tops, short shorts, tight clothing, or anything see-through.
- Remove footwear and headwear: Always take off your shoes and hat before entering temple buildings or sacred halls.
- Be prepared: Carry a scarf, sarong, or light jacket in your bag so you can cover up quickly if needed.
Body Language & Respect
- Mind your feet: In many Buddhist cultures, feet are considered the lowest and least clean part of the body. Never point the soles of your feet toward monks, worshippers, or Buddha images.
- Proper sitting: When sitting on the floor, tuck your legs to the side or sit cross-legged. Avoid stretching your legs out.
- Respect for Buddha statues: Never turn your back on a Buddha image. If you need to leave, back away a few steps before turning. Do not touch or climb on any statues.
- Doorway thresholds: Always step over the raised threshold at temple entrances—never step or stand on it.
Interacting with Monks & General Behavior
- Maintain silence: Temples are places for prayer and meditation. Speak softly, keep noise to a minimum, and silence your phone.
- No physical contact: Avoid touching monks. Women, in particular, should not hand anything directly to a monk—place the item on a table or cloth for them to receive.
- Stay lower: Never position yourself higher than a monk or a Buddha statue. If monks are seated on a raised platform, sit on the floor in front of them.
- Photography: Always ask permission before photographing monks or people. Avoid taking selfies with a Buddha statue or turning your back to one for a photo, as this is considered disrespectful.
What is the best time to visit Wat Ban Den?
The best time to visit Wat Ban Den is the early morning between 6:00 and 09:00 AM or the late afternoon at 3:00 or 4:00 PM. Try to avoid Saturday, Sunday, National Holidays and long weekends.
I have visited Wat Ban Den several times and on each visit I see something new. My last visit took place this year in June. I arrived at 0800 and was the only visitor. The only people around were construction workers and people who were busy cleaning and maintaining the buildings.The first visitors started to arrive about an hour later. I also visited the temple on January 3. It was quite crowded and most visitors were Thai.
Sources for this article
I visit the temple regularly and talk to volunteers and other people at the temple
วัดเด่นสะหลีศรีเมืองแกน” อลังการแห่งศรัทธา, MGR online 2011
Wat Den Sali Si Mueang Kaen, Wikipedia
“วัดบ้านเด่นสะหรีศรีเมืองแกน” อ.แม่แตง เชียงใหม่ ความงดงาม อลังการด้วยศิลปล้านนาประยุกต์, Chiang Mai News, 2022
The location of Wat Ban Den
