Chiang Mai a la Carte
The Martyr’s Memorial Hall in Mae Salong
May
The Martyr’s Memorial Hall
The Martyr’s Memorial Hall is in the town of Santikhiri, also known as Mae Salong, Mae Fah Luang District in Chiang Rai province. The building is devoted to the tragic history and sacrifice of the soldiers of the 5th Chinese Nationalist (Kuomintang) Army. It consist of a museum, a memorial hall for the fallen soldiers and an information center about the development of Mae Salong and other Kuomintang (KMT) communities in Northern Thailand.
Foundation of the Martyr’s Memorial Hall
Construction of the Martyr’s Memorial Hall started on September 25, 2001 and was completed on October 30, 2002. The area of the complex is a bit more than 1,1 hectares. The Construction budget amounted to about 11,3 million Thai Baht, more than 250,000USD, taking into account the average exchange rate in 2001. The construction was funded by CARES, the Chinese Association for Relief and Ensuing Services from Taiwan. The Ministry of Defense from Taiwan pays for the maintenance and upkeep of the Martyrs Memorial Hall since 2011.
The War Museum
I recommend to start your visit in the museum which is the building on the left of the Memorial Hall. The museum features maps, photographs, a diorama, and explanations in Chinese, Thai, and English. It tells the story of the Kuomintang forces, who were defeated by the Communist forces under Mao Zedong during the Chinese Civil War in 1949.
After retreating to Burma (now Myanmar), they continued their fight against the communist forces and their fight for survival in a strange country until Burmese and communist forces finally expelled them in 1961. The 5th KMT Army crossed the border into Thailand and settled on Doi Mae Salong (Mae Salong Mountain) in Chiang Rai province. Another unit, the 3rd KMT Army under General Lee Wen Huan, settled in Tham Ngob in Chiang Mai province.
The battles the KMT forces were involved in
The War Museum tells the story of the battles in China, Burma and Thailand the 3rd and 5th KMT armies were involved in, from roughly 1949 until 1982. There is a lot of information, not always in chronological order and not easy to understand if you don’t know the background. Many of the names are wrongly transcribed which is rather confusing. I recommend to do some reading before going to the Martyr’s Memorial Hall.
The Central Martyr’s Memorial Hall
This is the most impressive and moving space of the Martyr’s Memorial Hall. This central hall is a memorial shrine dedicated to the fallen soldiers of the 5th KMT Army. Hundreds of wooden panels contain the names of those who died during the fighting. The hall houses a huge map of Thailand. The national flags of Thailand and of the Republic of China (ROC) aka Taiwan are displayed prominently.
The office and information center
The office and information center is on the right side of the Memorial Hall. The information center, “museum room 2”, informs about the development of Mae Salong and other KMT communities in Northern Thailand in cooperation with Thai authorities. The many photographs depict also other KMT communities, such as Mae Aw in Mae Hong Son province. This border village is better known as Baan Rak Thai, “the community that loves Thailand”. The pictures show the hard work and dedication from all concerned to develop all KMT communities to become the thriving and beautiful places they are now.
Colonel Gong Chen Yae
On the compound of the Martyr’s Memorial Hall you will find a statue of Colonel Gong Chen Yae amongst others. According to the engraved text he was a man who spent his life doing good work for the KMT soldiers and their families.
People you might encounter
Khun Alay is the caretaker of the Martyr’s Memorial Hall. He opens and closes the building every day and can give you information about the building and its importance for the Mae Salong community. Before you enter the compound of the Martyr’s Memorial Hall there is a row of shops on both sides. They sell tea and a variety of souvenirs. Khun Ngern runs one of these shops and I always sit down and enjoy a cup of tea at her shop when I am visiting.
Facts about the Martyr’s Memorial Hall
The Martyr’s Memorial Hall is open every day from 0800 until 1700. There is no entrance fee.
References
David Frazier, A battle for historical memory in Thailand’s “Little Taiwan”, Taipei Times, May 22, 2025
Kamthorn Semkasem, General claims 500 KMT killed in anti-guerilla war, Bangkok Post, November 22, 1973
