Chiang Mai a la Carte, temples & architecture
Phra That Doi Tung, temple on the mountain
Dec
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Phra That Doi Tung, the temple of the year of the Pig
Phra That Doi Tung (พระธาตุดอยตุง) is a spectacular Buddhist temple close to the summit of Doi Tung, the highest peak of the Doi Nang Non mountain range, Chiang Rai province. There are actually two temples: Wat Phra That Doi Tung and Phra That Doi Tung. Driving up the mountain you will first pass Wat Phra That Doi Tung, a fairly large and modern temple complex. Just a kilometer further up the road is the Phra That Doi Tung, which is very well known for its two gilded chedis. This temple is also known as Wat Maha Chin That Chao. Wat Phra That Doi Tung is worth a short visit but your destination has to be the two chedis.
What is special?
The view from this temple is among the most spectacular I’ve seen at any temple in Thailand. It’s comparable to the stunning vistas at Wat Chalermphrakiat, also known as the “Floating Pagodas” in Lampang province. One feature I particularly appreciate is the absence of a Sky Walk, which you’ll find at places like Wat Phra That Doi Wao and Wat Phra That Pha Ngao. Let’s hope they preserve the natural beauty of Doi Tung without constructing one here.
Many people regard Phra That Doi Tung as the first pagoda of the Lanna Kingdom, making it a site of great historical and spiritual significance. The temple is also associated with the Thai zodiac sign for the Year of the Pig. It’s a tradition for many Thai people to visit their birth-year temple at least once in their lifetime, as they believe it brings good luck and merit, especially during their 12-year zodiac birthday cycle.
The most recent Year of the Pig was 2019, and the next one will be in 2031—mark your calendar if this is your zodiac year!
Visiting the temple
The first parking lot you will meet gives access to the lovely Naga staircase that leads to the temple. Next to the parking lot is a poorly maintained museum that seems to contain interesting information but it was closed when I visited on November 17 2024. In front of the museum is a statue of the monk Kruba Srivichai, the “engineer-monk”, whose followers restored many temples in North Thailand in the 1920s and 30s. You can drive further up and park your car at the level on the temple but I recommend walking up the Naga staircase. This staircase is not very long but beautiful and lined with bells with flags.
The History of Phra That Doi Tung
The history of this temple dates back to the ancient Yonok Kingdom, also known as Singhavanati, a kingdom that existed before the rise of the Lanna Kingdom. In 910 CE, King Achutarat constructed the first chedi to enshrine sacred relics of the Buddha. According to legend, a large ceremonial flag, known as a “tung,” was unfurled, and the chedi was built on the spot where the wind carried the flag.
In the 13th century, King Mangrai (1239–1329), the founder of Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, and the Lanna Kingdom, added a second chedi to enshrine additional relics of the Buddha. This site holds immense spiritual significance and is considered one of the most sacred Buddhist locations in Chiang Rai province.
Phra That Doi Tung and Kruba Srivichai
For different reasons many temples and sanctuaries deteriorated over a period of many centuries. The first pictures of Buddhist temples that were taken more than 120 years ago show ruined temple buildings and pagodas. The controversial monk Kruba Srivichai (1878-1939) initiated the restoration of temples across Northern Thailand. He was an almost mythical figure who attracted a large following. Villagers donated money and labor as an act of merit. Under his leadership his followers also constructed the road to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, that was finished in 1935. Kruba Srivichai became known as the “engineer-monk” and the patron saint of Lanna.
Restoration of the chedis
In 1904 Kruba Srivichai finished the restoration of Wat Ban Pang, a temple in the place of his birth in Lamphun province. This started a campaign of restoration of temples across Northern Thailand. Wat Phra That Doi Tung was one of these temples. A major restoration of the chedis took place between 1927 and 1931. They built covers over the original pagodas, constructed tiger statues at the four corners and built an assembly hall with a Buddha image. Gilding of the chedi happened not earlier than 1956.
The restoration of Prakit Busabuya
After years of discussion and consultation, the Ministry of Interior decided in 1971 on a major restoration of the chedis of Phra That Doi Tung. The national artist Prakit Busabuya (1911-2010) designed a new structure to cover the original chedis. This new design was a square structure with niches with Buddha images on each of the four sides, resembling the chedi of Wat Chomkitti in Chiang Saen. The restoration was finished in 1973. For some reason authorities decided in 2006 to remove the covers of Prakit Busabuya so now we can admire the original chedis again as they were restored by Kruba Srivichai. In 2020 I visited the temple and found both chedis under maintenance.
A Temple with a view
Phra That Doi Tung is a very special place on top of the world. It is quite a drive to get there but you will be rewarded, not only with a serene and wonderful religious experience. The temple compound also has one of the most spectacular view decks in Northern Thailand. From the temple itself you have a fantastic view over the mountains and lowlands but you can also take a short walk to a different viewpoint.
I visited Doi Tung on November 17 on a beautiful day. I was delighted that the chedis were in fantastic condition.
Sources of this article
I based this article on information at the temple. Here is a list of other articles I consulted:
พลิกประวัติศาสตร์ พระธาตดอยตง – A short history of Phra That Doi Tung – Fine Arts Department
How to get there
There is no public transportation to temple so you must have your own vehicle or join a tour that has this temple on its itinerary. A visit to Phra That Doi Tung is usually combined with a visit to the Mae Fah Luang Gardens and the Royal Villa. Once you are there it is still a 6km drive. There is no entrance fee. The daily opening times are from 0800 until 1700.
