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Buddhist Temples
Chiang Saen: Wat Phrathat Pha Ngao
20
Jul
Jul
Frans Betgem
Table of Contents
Beautiful temple with great views
There is surprisingly little information about this fascinating temple. Wat Phra That Pha Ngao (วัดพระธาตุผาเงา) is a Buddhist temple, less than 10 km from Chiang Saen. The temple offers spectacular views over the Mekong River and Laos. It is a community center as well.
There are two museums, an educational center, and many stunning buildings. This is a must-visit place if you are in the neighborhood. You can easily spend a couple of hours at this extensive complex. During all my visits there were many other, mainly local, visitors, making this one of the most lively temples in North Thailand.
I have visited the temple several times in the past couple of years and it has become somewhat of a favorite of mine. Most people know the temple as Wat Pha Ngao so I will use this shortened version of the name.
The History of Wat Phra That Pha Ngao
This temple was originally located right on the banks of the Mekong River. Its name was Wat Sobkhame The river flooded or changed course causing damage to the temple so monks decided to move it more inland. While looking for a new location they encountered a cave called Tham Pha Ngao, ancient ruins, and Buddha statues. They found a half statue of the Buddha and, after a dream of one of them, a beautiful Buddha statue behind a small wall of bricks. According to an archaeologist, this statue is between 700 and 1300 years old. This took place in February/March 1976. Both these statues are at the temple.
A boulder with a chedi on top
The main attraction of the temple is the bell-shaped chedi on top of a big boulder, located behind the viharn. In the boulder is the small Buddha image that people found in the forest. You can walk around the boulder.
Inside the newly constructed viharn is the half statue of the Buddha that the monks and people encountered in 1976. It is called Luang Por Pha Ngao.
The Tripitaka Hall
This beautiful building is set in a pond. It is a museum of wooden filing cabinets to keep the tripitaka, the Buddhist scriptures. There are beautiful filing cabinets from different countries such as Thailand, Laos, India, Cambodia and more. On the walls of the building are images of many well known temples in the North of Thailand.
Phra Borommathat Phuttha Nimit Chedi
The Phra Borommathat Phuttha Nimit Chedi is another great attraction of this temple. You have to drive into the temple and go straight. At the end, you turn right and follow the road up to this modern chedi. This chedi dates back to the 1980s. It is pleasing to the eye but the main attraction of it is the panorama on the Mekong River, Laos, and Chiang Saen.
The interior of this chedi is beautiful and quite interesting. There are murals and Buddha statues. Inside are also four small rooms that are dedicated to famous monks and exhibit Lanna antiquities. There is a statue of the patron saint of Lanna, Kruba Srivichai.
A footprint of the Buddha
At the time they moved the temple from its location on the river to the current location, a man called Nuch Khamwang found a Buddha footprint. When he took villagers to have a look the footprint had disappeared. The Abbot of the temple decided to have a footprint made, which is now on display. In 2017 they celebrated the opening of the small building that houses the footprint. Across the country there are many footprints of the Buddha, for instance at Wat Phutthabat Tak Pha.
The Naga staircase
A Naga staircase leads to an area where Wat Phrathat Chom Cham, an ubosot and a belfry are located. Beware: this is only half way to the top of the hill where the white chedi is located. If you want to walk further up to the top, you have to follow the main road, which is not very attractive. The Naga staircase is very nice though. I always prefer to walk the staircase instead of driving but in this case you can better drive up.
Phra That Chom Cham and the Ubosot
These are located about halfway up the hill. The Naga staircase leads to them but stops there. Almost paralel to the staircase is a trail that leads through the forest. Phra That Chom Cham is the ruin of a brick chedi. There is no information available about this ruined temple. Next to it is a beautiful, opulent ubosot, which was open during my last visit. It houses a Buddha statue.
Phra Borommathat Phuttha Nimit Chedi
The Phra Borommathat Phuttha Nimit Chedi is another great attraction of this temple. You have to drive into the temple and go straight. At the end you turn right and follow the road up to this modern chedi. This chedi dates back to the 1980s. It is pleasing to the eye but the main attraction of it is the panorama on the Mekong River, Laos and Chiang Saen.
The interior of this chedi is beautiful and quite interesting. There are murals and Buddha statues. Inside are also four small rooms that are dedicated to famous monks and exhibit Lanna antiquities. There is a statue of the patron saint of Lanna, Kruba Srivichai.
Tai Lue Textile Museum
Just after you have entered the temple complex you will see on your right hand side a small textile museum. There is a weaving collective as well. The museum exhibits beautiful Tai Lue textiles. This museum was closed on two of my visits.
The Museum of Local Culture
This is a surprisingly interesting museum. I has maps, old photos, artifacts, untensils and information in Thai language about Chiang Saen and surroundings on three floors.
Most interesting I found the basement where traditional utensils are exhibited. There is for instance a wooden rice pounder, a rice mill, fishing utensils, old pipes and a corn grinder.
Visiting Wat Phra That Pha Ngao
The temple complex is large. There are many interesting buildings, museums and other sights of interest. You can easily spend an hour or longer at this temple. It is the best to charter transportation in Chiang Saen. The temple gets many visitors. There is ample parking space and there are a number of small cafés and stalls.
Most recent developments
During my most recent visit earlier this year I noticed the construction of a “skywalk” at the viewpoint of the Phra Borommathat Phuttha Nimit Chedi. I could see an iron structure from afar and checked it out. According to local people the construction had been halted because of a lack of funds, something that is not usual in Thailand. I took the below pictures. The latest news is that this skywalk has now been finished.
References for this article
I could find very little information online about this temple. Most of the information I gathered at the temple, which I visited three times in the past two years. Wat Phra That Pha Ngao has become one of my favorite temples.
I also got some info from:
Michael Freeman, Lanna, Thailand’s Northern Kingdom, Bangkok, 2001
Some facts about Wat Phra That Pha Ngao
The temple is located just 10 km from Chiang Saen. There is no entrance fee but donations are highly appreciated. Please dress respectfully and be quiet.
Wat Prathat Pha Ngao features in the following tours
Chiang Rai Tours
From: 4,200.00 ฿
