temples & architecture
Chiang Rai: the Amazing Wat Ming Muang
Mar
Table of Contents
Introduction: Wat Ming Muang
Wat Ming Muang (วัดมิ่งเมือง) is a stunning Buddhist temple in the old center of Chiang Rai, on the corner of Trairat and Baanpa Phragarn roads not far from the new Clock Tower. It is an unusual complex with a mysterious history. There are several buildings and there have been restorations very recently.
If you enter on Trairat road you will see on the right a fairly new assembly hall with the main chedi behind the building. In front of you is a standing Buddha image in front of another assembly hall, probably the oldest structure on the compound. On the left facing Baanpa Phragarn road is a fairly new building with a very interesting rooftop.
The current correct translation from Thai to English is Wat Ming Mueang but I stick to the old spelling: Wat Ming Muang.
The History of Wat Ming Muang
According to online information and information at the temple, Wat Ming Muang was founded during the reign of King Mangrai, the founder of Chiang Rai. On several websites I found 1262 as the year of the foundation of this temple. The website of the TAT (Tourism Authority of Thailand) mentions three different names of the temple, besides Wat Ming Muang: Wat Ngiao, Wat Chang Mup (Chang Mup) and Wat Talamae Si.
“Ngiao” (เงี้ยว) refers to the Shan (Tai Yai) people who seem to have had some influence in the restoration of the temple, probably in the late 19th-early 20th century. Wat Chang Mup or Moob refers to a pond opposite the temple, in which people bathed elephants in the past. Finally, Talamae Si refers to Chao Nang Talamae Si, the wife of King Mangrai, who allegedly founded the temple.
The official history of Wat Ming Muang
According to ancient evidence and “rumor”, the founder of Wat Ming Muang was Chao Nang Talamae Si, wife of King Mangrai, the founder of Chiang Rai. She was the daughter of a Burmese King from Pha Ko city (Hong Sao Wadi). She built the temple as a memorial to Phra Nang Ua Ming Chom Muang, the mother of King Mangrai. People believe the chedi, Phra That Ming Muang, of the temple houses her relics.
Wat Ming Muang: the Controversy
Aphisit Sirichai, a local historian, has challenged the official story of the foundation of Wat Ming Muang. A Wikipedia page in Thai language states that Aphisit has stated that there is no evidence that Phra Nang Maha Thewi Usa Payako, King Mangrai’s wife, established the temple. The person named Talamae Si was born after the death of King Mangrai and was not his wife.
If we follow the local historian’s theory there is evidence that in 1877 a group of Shan (Tai Yai) people founded the temple opposite a pond where elephants enjoyed bathing: Nong Chang Moob (หนองช้างมูบ). They were “under British rule” and thus probably from the Shan States in Burma or another area in Burma. The Shan States actually became part of the British Empire after the Third Anglo-Burmese War in 1885.
The old Assembly Hall
The old assembly hall, Viharn Mai Lai Kham, houses a 400-year-old gilded stucco Buddha statue, Luang Phor Phra Sri Ming Muang, is a image in the so-called “Chiang Saen Singh 1 style”. On the walls are artists impressions of King Mangrai, his wife, his mother and other people. This is not the only remaining wooden Shan-style assembly hall left in Chiang Rai. The rarely visited Tai Yai temple Wat San Pa Ko in Chiang Rai has a wooden assembly hall as well.
The Shan influence is visible in the richly adorned ceiling of the assembly hall with the typical Burmese glass mosaic (hman gyan si (မှန်ကြမ်းစီ). Besides, there are two Shan-style crowned Buddha images on the altar.
Recent additions to the temple
Notable features, amongst others, include the “Bor Nam Chang Mup,” an ancient well with an arch adorned with crouching elephant statues facing east. They have restored this well in 2020. The most recent addition appears to be the unusual and richly adorned building facing Baanphra Phrangan road. According to a plaque above a door the date of construction is 2017. A staircase leads to the roof with spectacular pavillions and statues.
Wat Ming Muang after dark
Wat Ming Muang after dark is a sight to behold. The most beautiful time to be there is sunrise or sunset. You will not find hordes of people there and probably will be the only one. This only enhances the experience.
Some facts about Wat Ming Muang
The opening times of this temple are from 0600 until 1800 but that applies to the buildings. The temple compound is open 24 hours a day. After dark the temple is beautifully illuminated and very much worth visiting. On the roof there are spectacular shrines and statues so don’t forget to walk up the staircase.
Admission is free.
Many people confuse Wat Ming Muang with Wat Mung Muang, Another temple which is a few blocks away, close to the Central Market. Even Google Maps is confused….Please note that there is also a Wat Ming Muang in the town of Nan.
Behind the old assembly are monk’s quarters (sangkhawat). When I visited in June 2025 there were two monks and two novices in Wat Ming Muang.
